Between the palm-lined promenades of Lake Maggiore and the rugged peaks of the Alps, two valleys define the magic of Ticino: the Centovalli and the Maggia Valley.
They lie only a few kilometres apart, yet they tell very different stories — one of tranquil train rides through gorges and stone villages, the other of roaring waterfalls and granite wilderness.
Together they capture the essence of southern Switzerland: a place where mountain adventure meets Mediterranean ease.
The Centovalli – A Journey Through a Hundred Valleys
A Landscape of Shadows and Light
The Centovalli — literally “the valley of a hundred valleys” — stretches west from Locarno to Domodossola in Italy.
It’s a narrow corridor carved by rivers and side gorges, where chestnut forests cling to the slopes and sunlight flickers through the trees.
Tiny hamlets, stone bridges and quiet chapels appear suddenly around corners, giving the impression that time has paused here.
The valley is best explored not by car but by rail — on one of Europe’s most scenic mountain train journeys.
The Centovalli Railway – Switzerland’s Hidden Gem on Rails
The Centovalli Railway / Centovalli Bahn (Ferrovie Vigezzina–Centovalli) is a narrow-gauge line that has connected Locarno with Domodossola since 1923.
In just two hours, the train travels 52 kilometres across 83 bridges and through 31 tunnels, revealing a new panorama every few minutes.
Large panoramic windows frame deep ravines, cascading waterfalls, and villages that seem suspended between forest and sky.
At times, the tracks appear to float above the treetops; at others, they dive into the rock itself. It’s a hypnotic rhythm — tunnel, light, river, bridge — that defines the very soul of the Centovalli.
Highlights Along the Way
- Intragna – home to Ticino’s tallest bell tower and a postcard-perfect village centre.
- Verdasio – gateway to the cable car up to Rasa, a mountain village accessible only by foot or cable lift.
- Camedo – the last Swiss stop, surrounded by chestnut woods and hiking trails.
Each station invites exploration; you can hop off, wander a while, and catch the next train.
The railway is fully integrated with local transport passes and operates year-round, making it the ideal adventure in any season.
Why It’s Special
Unlike high-speed trains, the Centovalli Railway invites you to slow down.
It’s not about arriving; it’s about seeing — waterfalls flashing between trees, old stone houses perched on impossible ledges, and the ever-changing colours of the forest.
In autumn, the valley glows gold and crimson. In winter, snow dusts the roofs like sugar. Every ride feels different, and every seat has a view.
Life in the Centovalli
Life here flows at its own pace.
Villagers still harvest chestnuts, make honey, and tend terraced vineyards.
Small grotto restaurants serve risotto, cheese and local wine under leafy pergolas.
Hikers follow quiet footpaths between train stops, listening to birds and the echo of church bells.
It’s hard to imagine a more peaceful corner of Switzerland — and yet, adventure is never far away.
The Maggia Valley – Where Water Rules the Landscape
A Valley of Granite and Waterfalls
Just to the north of Locarno, the Maggia Valley / Valle Maggia opens wide and powerful, following the Maggia River from the Alps down to Lake Maggiore.
If the Centovalli is delicate and shaded, Maggia is bold and bright — a cathedral of granite, sunlight and water.
The river cuts deep through smooth boulders, creating natural pools and cascades that sparkle in turquoise and silver.
Side valleys like Val Bavona and Val Lavizzara hide some of Ticino’s most spectacular waterfalls and oldest stone settlements.
The Foroglio Waterfall, dropping nearly 80 metres beside a perfectly preserved mountain hamlet, is the valley’s crown jewel.
Its roar echoes through the valley — a reminder that this land belongs first and always to nature.
Villages Frozen in Time
Along the main road, you’ll pass Avegno, Gordevio, Cevio, and Bignasco — villages where slate-roofed houses and cobbled lanes preserve the rhythm of past centuries.
Stop in Cevio to visit the Valmaggia Museum, which tells stories of shepherds, emigrants, and life in the high pastures.
Lunch should always be in a grotto: simple stone cellars shaded by vines, serving polenta with melted cheese, cured meats, and a glass of local Merlot.
It’s humble, authentic, and tastes of the valley itself.
Hiking and Swimming
The Maggia Valley offers some of the best hiking in southern Switzerland.
Trails range from short riverside walks to multi-day treks across alpine passes.
Families love the gentle routes near Someo; more experienced hikers head towards Robiei and the Cristallina Pass.
In summer, the river becomes a natural swimming paradise.
Locals and visitors gather near Ponte Brolla to dive into deep pools of emerald water and sunbathe on warm granite slabs.
It’s wild, refreshing, and utterly unforgettable — the perfect antidote to the Mediterranean heat of the lake below.
Centovalli vs. Maggia Valley – Two Sides of the Same Soul
| Feature | Centovalli | Maggia Valley |
|---|---|---|
| Main access | Centovalli Railway (Locarno–Domodossola) | Scenic road from Locarno to Bignasco |
| Character | Narrow, shaded, romantic | Wide, wild, powerful |
| Highlights | Panoramic train, Intragna tower, Verdasio cable car | Foroglio waterfall, Val Bavona, natural pools |
| Best for | Slow travel, photography, cultural day trips | Hiking, swimming, nature adventure |
| Mood | Peaceful, nostalgic | Energetic, untamed |
Together, they form a perfect yin and yang: Centovalli whispers, Maggia sings.
One invites contemplation through its train windows; the other invites exploration on foot and in water.
Camping Lago Maggiore – The Ideal Starting Point
For travellers staying on the shores of Lake Maggiore, exploring both valleys couldn’t be easier.
From Locarno, Ascona, or Cannobio, you can reach the Centovalli Railway station in minutes or drive straight into the Maggia Valley.
Camping Lago Maggiore offers the best of both worlds — lakeside relaxation and quick access to mountain adventures.
Imagine waking up to the sound of waves, enjoying breakfast under palm trees, and deciding:
a leisurely train ride through the Centovalli, or a hike to a waterfall in the Maggia Valley?
Either way, you return in the evening to a sunset barbecue by the lake.
Why Campers Love This Region
- Central location between both valleys
- Direct lake access and private beaches
- Family-friendly facilities and restaurants
- EV charging, bike rentals, and Wi-Fi
- Peaceful nights under starry Ticino skies
Resorts like Lakeview Cannobio Camping & Resort combine comfort and authenticity — ideal for travellers who want freedom with style.
Travel Tips
- Best Season: May–October for hiking and swimming; December–March for winter scenery on the Centovalli Railway.
- Tickets: Buy Centovalli Railway passes online; consider the Ticino Ticket for discounts.
- Packing list: Hiking shoes, swimsuit, light jacket, camera.
- Combine the two: Take the morning train through Centovalli, have lunch in Italy, return to Locarno, and spend the next day hiking in the Maggia Valley.
- Safety: Mountain rivers can rise quickly; always swim in calm sections.
Conclusion – Two Valleys, Infinite Wonder
The Centovalli and Maggia Valley are more than destinations — they are experiences that reveal Ticino’s dual nature.
The train through Centovalli offers movement, rhythm, and reflection — a gentle glide through forests and stone villages.
The Maggia Valley delivers energy, freedom, and awe — water crashing over rock, sunlight bouncing off granite, and the raw silence of the Alps.
From your camping Lago Maggiore base, you can live both stories: one day a passenger in a moving masterpiece, the next an explorer beneath thundering waterfalls.
Together, these valleys show why Ticino remains one of Europe’s best-kept secrets — a land where Swiss precision meets Italian soul, and where every road, river, and rail line leads to wonder.
